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You need to adjust the governor arm to allow higher RPM.

Concur. However the cost of paper towels, shop rag washing in the family washing machine, etc. is both expensive and the hose will last forever pretty much or more than likely longer than the engine so overall it is a good investment to save your floor, cost of oil absorbents, towels, soap and water, your hands, etc.

If that is happening, your charger isn't putting a full charge in the cells such as not balancing the cells. Pop it apart, check the individual cells to see how close each cell is to the others for their charge level. With the case off, recharge the battery and periodically check the cells to see if they're balancing out. If not, you can make a balancing plug to use in a RC battery charger that will then take high charged cells, move the charge from them to the low charged cells and continue to do that until the battery is fully charged evenly again. That will last you for quite a long time more than likely or you can simply charge via that RC battery charger. Hope that helps. By the way, have you checked the connections for corrosion? Hope you subscribed, liked and hit the notification bell. It would greatly help me out. Thanks for watching.

You're very welcome. Hope it helped and I earned a subscribe from you.

Place a drop of air tool oil or auto transmission fluid on the steering shock shaft as shown in another of my videos. Also, lubricate all pivot points of the steering mechanism will make everything work as previously before they became stiff and hard to move as you remember from new. Hope this earned a subscribe from you along with watching my other videos. I need your help as you did mine. Thank you in advance, Max

Outstanding Joe!

So happy I was able to give you a path so that you didn't go down the wrong direction.

I would love to be able to help you out, however, I can't find mention of an Esler brand mower anywhere on the net. I will need the actual make, model, serial number if possible then please take photos all the way around your mower showing all attachment points from just enough distance to see both ends of each lift rod, chain, etc., then closeups that aren't too close since I will not have the same visual history as yourself. Once you have those taken, email them to the old MaxsGarajMahal at gmail dot com I'll study on them, get back as quickly as possible after I may have figured out the raising and lowering of your deck. Please include the sales site where they can be found so I can also look at their mowers hopefully with your model. More than likely I can figure it out, if not, I will certainly let you know. I do have a friend or two in 'Stralia and NZ that may be able to help you if I can't depending upon whether you are in Stralia.

Me too brother! Spent the last several days going in and out of ERs since Saturday. Hope to regain some health as CHF may not work out for me. But if it doesn't, know I consider you a very good friend Sir. Thank you for commenting.

Surely hope it helped you in a simplistic way you were able to follow easily. Hope you subscribed and thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it. Max Hughes

@@MaxsGarajMahalabsolutely! Using what I learned from you, my sticks are now aligned beautifully.

Gives me great pleasure knowing I've been of some small assistance making your life easier. God bless Max

Glad you liked it. I've been very happy with Ergo 2.0 and wasn't displeased with Ergo 1.0. When that was going on and before the start of the health set backs, I'd intended making upgrades for Hustler & BigDog branded mowers in two modes, the actual bolt on parts and step by step plans some with dotted lines print outs and dotted lines layover plans. I managed to continue to do well enough to test my thespian skills to not show the illnesses but that had to come to an end and during this time I figured out I couldn't maintain the manufacturing any products if at anytime I fell into further depths which I did several times rallying back to performing level but not as well each time. I just got out of the hospital today 6/30/24 and saw the comments so I knew I couldn't allow them to go unanswered so if you will forgive the health update, I do my best to be responsive no matter my health. I appreciate you making me jog what memory I own.

One thing is for sure, it will or it won't. Have some filters on order, got a gallon of oil so it will get an early sevice to see what comes out of it. Hopefully it wasn't completely dry during the run from the front of the house to the Garaj Mahal to fill her back up. Just because there isn't any on the stick doesn't mean the oil pump pick up isn't staying covered. Thanks for watching.

I've had tire sealant for a long time. I just have never enjoyed having it in the tires in the event a patch or plug was necessary. So I intend to use it now cause I know I don't have the energy to take the wheel off, put it on the HF tire changer to remove and replace the tire after it is patched. Good advice for sure. Thanks Joe.

Strokes and words really don't play well together. lol I do know how blessed I am to be able to speak as well as all the other things I am able.

I can't recommend having a stroke. Really screws with words falling off the tongue.

Yes Sir! Those are only there to keep me back in the seat, not for rop. On my property it would all but impossible to roll it and I've tried. hahaha

@@MaxsGarajMahal Really like your channel ,I run the Sdx, you have inspired some add ons

Glad I've inspired you.

No, it just isn't good for the bottom of the deck stacking the debris which then stops the vacuum underneath as well as bad for the paint. Otherwise, not a biggie.

Thank you for taking the time out of your busy day to stop by. I appreciate you and your talents.

Just do a search in Facebook and other socials. Should take you right to them.

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The fella no longer is in the printing business thus there are no longer any labels available as far as I know. You can join the Hustler Turf Mower Owners Official group in Facebook, look up Scott Hodge to send him a personal request. If you choose to join, make sure you answer the three questions to join. Whatever name you have on your FB account, type that in your name box. Also the other important one is what mower you have. I'll put you through.

Thank you kindly. Hope you subscribed and liked.

Check to see if it has a limb or any other debris blocking it from moving far enough. If none, disconnect from rod, then move by hand to see if it will disconnect. I can't tell you to go ahead and push or pull it, however if it were me, I know what I'd do. I'd pull it but I'd sure never tell you to. Is your drive belt tight? Is your wheelmotor full of 20w50 motor oil? Are the nuts tight on the steering sticks where the two levers come together? Do the two levers still have the spring on it? Is the steering rod connected properly at the steering stick lever in the front?

Yes Sir I do. ruclips.net/video/MzV1FH3BwSE/видео.html

They work great. Since those were made and the video came out, there are probably 25 companies making them now. Bet they don't sell many though. Biswaye may not make them anymore considering how few sales there are for them.

I used Marigold. I'm working on getting the original color canned for me so I can get it out in an affordable price considering the Hustler price at nearly 30 bucks is ridiculous.

@MaxsGarajMahal Max, does those replacement braces match up completely? You know a smart man us should have the dealer through one in on Hustler perchance,overlooked that .For the 900 time,me" you big dummy" !

I made a few videos riding the mower. One is with the camera mounted solid on the deck as well as on the frame. That action camera does not have anti-shake or whatever that's called. I still don't have one. Need one, don't have it. lol. To answer your question, yes you can't be without them. The rear needs suspension also.

You may. It is gmail.

@@MaxsGarajMahal yes gmail

Its a 7' x 20' trailer. It is fairly heavy around 750 pounds I'd guess. I've never run it across a scale. I used it to carry 120+ 8x8x16 concrete blocks along with 40 20"x20"x4" solid base blocks along with all the items to level a house, metal banding, tie down augers, hard wood wedges, etc. So far the heaviest thing on the trailer I've moved with the Super Z is 3 Hustler ZTs at once, filled in with two push mowers, a few trimmers, fuel cans, etc. Handled it very well. I will remind you unless you have your electric brake connector hooked up, do not get anywhere near a slight decline cause you'll find the bottom of it whether on top of the mower or below it.

Actually it isn't enough difference to feel it. This puppy is bottom heavy so it sort of balances it out. Thanks for watching.

No, as the fender mount will rub the tire as well as the tank will also most likely rub the tire. First would only damage the tire, not a big deal cause it will wear in. Second may become detrimental to your health. I can tell you for the short time investment as well as the additional bolts and a piece of 1" aluminum square tubing, you have to do it cause it is so much worth it even if you paid someone $250 bucks for the body lift alone you're ahead. Haven't purchased any tubing lately, but the bolts in bulk at TSC would only be about 3 bucks. Tubing probably 6 or 8 bucks. How can you go wrong? Thanks for watching. Max

All RUclips Channels have a magnifyling glass icon you can type in a search for their other videos. Just search Tachometers in my search magnifying area and you'll see two or three more videos covering different areas of tachs. Enjoy.

No, it shows actual rpm. Consider your governor will only allow your engine to turn X amount of rpm if set properly thus, if you show 3600 RPM WOT it is turning 3600 RPM WOT. I set mine first to 3600 WOT unloaded. Then I run the mower in heavy grass under load slightly uphill. My yard is 250' long with a 6 degree uphill. I make sure the engine is turning 3600 RPM WOT under this load. In order to get this outcome uphill under a load with a carb the engine requires the governor to allow 3750 to 3775 free load RPM. Give it a try and get back to me. Hope you subscribed, liked and hit the notification bell. Thanks for the comment and watching.

As do I. The TriClone only used a nut with built on washer. It is still the Hoss though.

I have a wheeled trimmer. Second one now. I always abused the dickens out of them when I was still using them. I used a .135 Triangle string that I doubled twice on both sides giving 8 cutting strings. It would take down some pretty heavy brush with that red triangle string. Try that and see if that helps your cutter. I'll see if I still have the label for the string. It may still be available today.

@@MaxsGarajMahal I have over 1200' of ditch that I clear twice a summer and if needed again in the fall. Can't mow it, even with a ditch mower (I keep trying). The wheeled string trimmer is what seems to work the best and it's a hearty cardio workout.

@@markjanowski1502 There is a product that attaches a push mower or wheeltrimmer that allows the ZT to move along the top of the bank as the mower moves down into the ditch while mowing. I'll see if I can find the owner's number so you can call him to get one. It's a super heavy duty attachment that will work long after your mowers and you are gone. The name of the company is TowandMow. Here is their url. motorheadproducts.com/ by MotorHead Products MH-0014 Ditch & Tree Solutions.

@@markjanowski1502 Check it out on this video: ruclips.net/video/ExFMHQAWYDM/видео.html

Not that I'm aware of. Hopefully I'm right. Thanks for watching.

The super glue and charcoal is snake oil. You're welcome to use that method, however you'll break it more than likely first push on the door button. Remember, you are going to disconnect your electrical cord from the house electrical system. There is now nothing you'll be touching that has any discharge to you or shouldn't be. With that said, the repair is very straight forward. My fix is the cure as you're not going to be able to hit it hard enough to break that screw. Remember, you can't control just how hard others push on the button and many thinks they should try to destroy everything they touch. That person is the one I make repairs for as a challenge to them to go ahead and give it your best shot. Whichever route you take, hopefully it works best for you. Remember though, once you do the charcoal thing getting the pieces to fit precisely again is out the window. Hope you subscribed, liked and hit the notification bell. Best of luck and kind regards, Max

@@MaxsGarajMahal Mine is the vintage R-2A55 Sharp. A local repair guy told me by phone that it sounds as if i may need a whole new door (due to the spring being embedded within the door). But parts aren't available anymore for my model. My situation is, that I need to press in JUST the right place on the push-button for the door to weakly open. So if it were you - what would you do?

@@minniyoutubaster If it was me? I'd disassemble it, see how the door latch works while diagnosing the problem, design a plan, implement the plan, reassemble it to make sure it functions properly, then forget it if your repair design is solid. Here is a microwave that may be very close to your door design although the overall look may be different, you're more concerned with the mechanical design more than the aesthetical design. This video may be revealing to you once you see just how simple it is to take down and put back together. It will also help you in the future when one of the microswitches goes out on yours and it will. This is the URL for that video named: "Conquering a Stubborn Microwave That Won't Shut Off: Restoring Control, and How You Can Too!" ruclips.net/video/NJAZ2V5dF1s/видео.html Just copy and paste that url into another tab and you'll go right to it.

@@MaxsGarajMahal Um, I clicked there, but in that vid you're focusing on switches, whereas i'm wanting to know how hard it is to fix latches that are embedded in the door. It may be way beyond my capability. That's where i'm at now. Besides, I personally am scared to fool with electronic switches. 🙄

@@minniyoutubaster You failed to garner the door latch part that is in the video. Plus you gained lessons on the switches that you'll need sooner than later. If you knock it apart, take some photos of the system, I'll be happy to do my best to see if a resolution comes to me. @gmail is my email to share the pics. That 30+ year old microwave/toaster/oven had the type of latch if I remember correctly. Seems it had a coil spring in the door but then that's been a year or two ago. The owner had a shop tell her it couldn't be repaired, couldn't get parts any longer and it isn't worth repairing. That was because the door latch stopped working because the top of the door broke when he was diagnosing the latch. For some reason, he pried up on the top of the door breaking the plastic retainer. It was JB Welded and still in service. That was 15 years ago. Remember, I pretty much always had what I used and used what I had.

Did you learn anything or were you too busy trying to come up with a comment? Thanks for watching.

Unfortunately it was not as helpful as I was hoping for. I have several Super Z's, there is nothing no youtube for deck leveling on a super z. Thanks for your video, parts of it did drag on. If I had a Raptor I'm sure it would have been helpful

That would be fantastic having a camera operator and editor. I'd be able to turn out a lot more helpful, smoother and clearer videos. Hope you subscribed for more videos and hit the bell. Thanks for the kind words and watching.

You have to have them and no, cut doesn't change. Just make sure you level your deck, 1/4" lower in front than rear and let'er rip.

Thanks​@@MaxsGarajMahal